Restaurant Geranium

The chefs Rasmus Kofoed and Soren Ledet, the award-draped owners of this elegant year-old restaurant, must really like smoke. Long before the presentation of my smoldering dessert, a roaring fire blazed in the restaurant’s backyard, casting a warm orange glow inside and sending up ashy clouds. Meanwhile, within the all-white rustic-chic dining room, Mr. Ledet was delivering the first haze-emitting laboratory experiment of the four-course lunch (548 kroner): smoked salmon topped with quail egg and salmon roe.

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