Restaurant U Emy Destinnové

On two visits, I enjoyed every dish but one. The dining room feels more like a living room with a dinner party going on, and you're almost definitely going to have a conversation with the host.

And the host told me that he plans changes to the menu soon. I do hope he holds over some dishes, but whatever he turns out, Chef Steven does know how to make food sing.

What stands out in my mind about his cooking is that he's a master of sauces. I really hope he keeps cooking the one with the Chianti. I'll be back for that, for sure.

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The newly revamped Restaurant U Emy Destinnové, while not perfect, is the kind of place I'd recommend for an intimate tête-à-tête over a meal.

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But then there are the quirkier, cozier details that lend U Emy Destinnové its undeniable charm: an upright piano covered in knickknacks and dried flower arrangements, a working fireplace, a chiming grandfather clock, and lots of amateurish paintings on the walls.

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These errant moments cannot derail your dining experience, however. U Emy Destinnové resembles grandma’s living room, well-worn and full of memories. You’re almost instantly enveloped by a feeling of comfort as you settle in for dinner. Plunge into a couch for drinks, click on the table lamp (the one with the long-out-of-date fringed shade) and you’re at home.

This building was, in fact, the birthplace of Czech opera star Ema Destinnová. And the new tenants have managed to bring global cuisine into a gilded-age setting, with a menu ranging through risotto, fresh seafood, steak and regional creations.

Some work better than others. Cauliflower, carrots and other vegetables softened considerably in their semi-American-style chowder of chicken and corn. The meat also turned almost soggy in the pot. But all this character seeps into the broth itself, so each spoonful begins with a down-home vegetal sweetness and wraps up in a hint of pepper and herbs. In between, soothing, creamy, somewhat meaty flavors rise to the fore. Despite the flaws, it’s an honest bowl of soup.

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American owner, Steven Trumpfheller, and his staff will make you feel at home - only he cooks better than most mothers...

The restaurant is situated in the building where the famous Czech opera Diva Emma Destinn was born.

From the outside this place doesn’t look like something very special – but don’t be fooled by that!

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