Miga

Our wits were needed to give the menu appropriate attention, diverse as it was. The usual fare was on offer: salmon, avocado, tuna, sea bream, octopus, squid, mussels and clams, shrimp, eel, mackerel and kimchee – each as nigiri sushi, maki sushi, and most as sashimi. Vegetarians are warned that even the vegetarian roll comes with (flying) fish roe, but there are noodle dishes without fish, fishpaste or meat. Shrimp, tofu, seaweed rolls and squid were offered tempura style. The ‘reserve menu’ (call ahead to order) had beef sashimi (with pear, cucumber and pinenuts) which intrigued, and might be worth a second visit.

This is a restaurant I would like to see go far. Some of the food leaves a little to be desired, but the atmosphere, while a little bewildering, is delightfully charming in a family way. I’d come here again, and bring a date, a colleague or friends, but would be more selective with the menu and – in particular - avoid the nigiri.

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The tuna plated at Miga is even less impressive. Sashimi arrived on the table while still a little frosty. As it warmed, the valued texture of good red meat seeped water — the result of dissolving ice crystals, or more accurately, chefs willing to short-cut the defrosting process.

[Miga] is one of those ubiquitous Japanese-Korean hybrids. And it seems that Miga’s kitchen has a much better handle on Korean fare. Its musty kimchi reveals both tart and hot streaks. Dolsot bibimbap revels in the cacophonous mix of julienned vegetables, meat, a few caramelized bits, rice, egg and — of course — the burn of chili paste. It’s a bit on the slovenly side, dragged down by little problems, but not at all bad. Pan-frying sears golden brown wrinkles into entirely adequate gyoza.

So the Korean dishes win at Miga, though not by much.

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