Osteria Da Clara

The kitchen (or more accurately, the guy who does all the cooking) turns out al dente rigatoni with a tacky, naturally sweet edge. This twinge of flavor is all that’s needed to set apart a thick and husky beef ragu. The penne alla amatriciano also pits perfect “to the tooth” pasta against a dense sauce, tart and sweet from tomato — a simple affair, the only note of intrigue coming from bits of pancetta lurking here and there, momentarily tugging flavors earthward.

This antidote to haute cuisine occupies the old Valleta space, a truly off-the-beaten-path destination once known for chef Filip Blažek’s inspired creations. Almost hidden on a Vršovice side street and often overlooked, Valleta nevertheless deserved better than a slow death.

It’s the same with Da Clara. New owners kept the room’s nondescript charm, moaned a little about the location, and exchanged Blažek’s unique menu for a limited selection of Italian standards.

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A couple of visits to Osteria da Clara the first week after it opened has me interested. And at least two dishes had V and me excited.

There were imperfections, but I think (and hope) those can be attributed to the restaurant's newness.

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