Tlustá Kachna

And, as suggested by its name, Tlustá Kachna doesn't serve the Italian – Asian mélange favored by its former owners. Instead, it has plain and simple Czech food, like svíčková (beef in cream sauce), Moravský brabec (Moravian 'sparrow'), and tatarák (steak tartare); according to its website, the chefs make food using their grandmothers' recipes. The menu change might help explain why this place has quickly gained a local following.

Well, that, and the fact that the price is right, too. Most Czech restaurants in Prague 1 are geared towards tourists, serving expensive and often subpar meals. The other option is traditional hospodas, which have cheap Czech food that is also subpar.

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Tlustá kachna sticks to traditional home cooking. Menu highlights include Czech classics like beef goulash, "grandmother's svíčková" and, of course, baked duck.

Furnished with wooden tables and rustic chairs, Tlustá kachna is a comfortable, modern bistro, decorated with paintings of fowl and model ducks. The music, however, is a mixed bag; on one occasion, it melded in benignly with the ambient noise, while on another, bass-heavy dance music blasted through the speakers.

Get past the iffy music selection, though, and the food here exemplifies the best of traditional Czech cuisine.

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