Le Grill

Everything that emerged from the kitchen was well thought out, sure of itself, and left mediocrity fathoms below.

All of the starters had me changing my usual rules of review methodology, and cleaning each plate (which isn’t all that difficult with the dainty portion sizes). The asparagus and pine nuts risotto with mascarpone and truffle oil was as much an innovative harmony of textures as it was in flavor. The Irish beef tartare reminded me that tartare can achieve much more than the par of meat quality, and although the tarragon emulsion was slightly abrasive for my liking, the dish had me reaching for the table’s breadbasket, so that I could continue until it was gone.

Of the main courses, my favorites were the herb-crusted rack of lamb atop ratatouille vegetables, and the red tuna fillet, which emerged perfectly medium-rare, per my request, with a flavor and effortlessly sliceable texture that I recall now with exactitude. My companion raved about the Irish beef fillet and the tender, juicy justice it did for his carnivorous appetite. Even the details of each dish made unforgettable impressions, pumpkin puree, celestial polenta and melt-in-your mouth soufflé, and the au gratin potatoes that my companion still talks about with excitement. It was the co-star pumpkin gnocchi that beckoned me from the description when I ordered the grilled corn fed chicken breast. Imagine it. OK, it’s better than that.

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The location, seating 60, features white, red and gray decor. Heavy curtains left in just enough light and even the red calla lilies on the table fit the overall setting. Music was entertaining, yet relaxing and dynamic.

The menu held the most exquisite choices and also a daily offer, with prices slightly below those on the regular menu—not enough to make a difference, but enough to convince the customer to think them over. Despite the appealing offer, I considered it best to try the dishes of the day, where a selection from two courses was possible for everything—starter, main course and dessert. The staff was prompt to recommend an apéritif, an aromatic Martini Rosso (Kč 110) that came accompanied with ice. Courses were anticipated by an offer of a variety of bread and three starters: classical herb butter, a tomato-based pasta and pesto with olive oil, which was fresh and tasty.

The staff makes one feel welcome, while the food they bring just confirms that Le Grill is a special place, an experience that every gourmand—local or visiting—can’t afford to miss. Prices might be reminiscent of similar eateries in London or Paris as a customer should count on at least Kč 1,000 per person for a basic meal that would include a glass of wine and a coffee, but it’s worth every crown.

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